Thread: Sulfur removal system

Bob,

Can you email me the diagram for your sulfur removal system? I can't get the one on your website to show up good enough to understand what it is/does. I'm also interested in the "footprint" for the system since I don't have unlimited floorspace. Any other info you have will be appreciated.

My water well system uses a 120 gallon galvanized tank (instead of a bladder tank) to get rid of the sulfur smell (typical for this area). I'm thinking about putting in a CSV but have heard the comments that they don't work as well with a galvanized tank as they do with a bladder tank, so if I put in a CSV and switch to a bladder tank, I will still need to remove the sulfur smell.

I also have a sprinkler system downstream from the tank that uses 28gpm at 50psi. Will this have any bearing on the sulfur removal system?

Thanks,
Ira

HI Ira,

Since you have the galvanized tank, you would only need the Air Pump and some other items to make it all work. The galvanized tank is the only thing that actually takes up space. The air pump can be held in one hand and the other items are all part of the plumbing system one way or another. So no footprint.

The schematic I have for it is the same one that is on the Website. Did you click on the schematic to enlarge it? If not, sometimes you need to have that feature turned on in your control panel. But by simply clicking on the image, it should get bigger and easier to understand.

If that doesn't work, let me know and I'll get one off in an email.
This is the link to the enlarged page:
http://www.pumpsandtanks.com/Wells/I...pumpsystem.gif

bob...

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Thanks Bob,

I can see it now. Don't know why I didn't see "Click to Enlarge" earlier. Maybe because it was 2:00AM.

So comparing my system to the diagram...obviously I don't have the bladder tank. Do I need it, or does your diagram include it because most systems already have one? My galvanized tank is 120 gallons. My pressue switch is on the pipe between the well and the galvanized tank. I assume the pressure switch controlling the pump is not shown in your diagram, and the switch shown is strictly for controlling the air pump? Does that mean I add another pressure switch between the well and tank? If I have two switches, how closely in sync do they need to be for on and off?

My tank has the water going in near the bottom of the tank on one side, and going out near the bottom on the other side. Will the input side need to be re-plumbed to fill the tank from the top? Could I have the water going in near the bottom and air going in at the top, or does that defeat the purpose? Can water and air both go in near the bottom?

What is the "tank diverter" at the top of the tank? My tank just has a plug in the top. I tried taking it out one time but couldn't budge it. The tank is about 17 years old.

So is the idea behind this simply that the air pump forces air into the tank any time the pump is running, rather than depending on the air release valve mechanism to do its job?

What would be my cost on your system given that I have the tank, and what all parts would it contain?

Thanks,
Ira

That's way more questions than I can remember, so I'll do it this way.

quote:So comparing my system to the diagram...obviously I don't have the bladder tank. Do I need it, Yes you should have a bladder tank. That way if the air pump fails for any reason, you will have protection for your pump. The galvanized tank will be waterlogged.or does your diagram include it because most systems already have one? No, I do not include one in the price of the system. You can take off $100.00 for the galvanized tank we would ordinarily send if you can get the plug out of yours. (Heat Helps). My galvanized tank is 120 gallons. My pressue switch is on the pipe between the well and the galvanized tank. I assume the pressure switch controlling the pump is not shown in your diagram, and the switch shown is strictly for controlling the air pump? Does that mean I add another pressure switch between the well and tank? No, the one shown is your switch. It will run your pump and Air Pump. The other way to run the air pump is with a Flow Switch. We normally use the Flow Switch when someone has Sprinklers to keep from wearing out the air pump prematurely. If I have two switches, how closely in sync do they need to be for on and off? Only one switch

My tank has the water going in near the bottom of the tank on one side, and going out near the bottom on the other side. Will the input side need to be re-plumbed to fill the tank from the top? Yes Could I have the water going in near the bottom and air going in at the top, No, all you would get in the house would be air until it was all gone, then the system wouldn't work. or does that defeat the purpose? Can water and air both go in near the bottom? Nope, air has to go into the top of the tank. This is where the gas is released from the water so it can be let out via the Air Release Valve.

What is the "tank diverter" at the top of the tank? My tank just has a plug in the top. I tried taking it out one time but couldn't budge it. The tank is about 17 years old. The diverter makes the water spray sideways to help disperse the gas and to keep the water from breaking the float off the Air Release Valve.

So is the idea behind this simply that the air pump forces air into the tank any time the pump is running, rather than depending on the air release valve mechanism to do its job? Air Control (Release) Valves do not put air into a tank with a submersible pump. They let air out. The Air Pump has a Ramped Valve Plate which makes it possible for the pump to start under pressure. Air compressors are not designed to do this. This is one reason I have to pay so much for these little pumps.

What would be my cost on your system given that I have the tank, and what all parts would it contain? Your cost would be $857.00. This price includes the Air Pump, Brass Check Valve, two Plastic Check Valves, Diverter, Injection Tee, Plastic Tubing, Mounting Plate for the Pump and Air Release Valve.

I hope that answered all your questions.

bob...

Products and Pricing

Bob,

Thanks for the explanations. I have some follow-on questions. You recommended a flow switch because I have a sprinkler system. Does that mean the flow switch would be located on the house side of the "T" so that the flow switch would not detect any flow when the sprinkler system is running (unless something in the house is using water at the same time)? Is the flow switch okay with the small amount of backflow that may occur when the sprinkler system starts if there isn't any flow to the house at that time, or does there need to be a check valve before the flow valve to eliminate backflow?

What is the "normal state" of the galvanized tank with your system? When there is no flow at all, does the tank contain the same amount of air as if the sulfur removal system wasn't there?

I was surprised to see that the maximum pressure for the flow valve is 60psi. I'm told that I may need to increase my pressure from 60psi to as much as 75psi when I install an RPZ backflow preventer for my sprinkler system. I guess I would have to install a pressure regulator on the house branch before the flow valve. That's not a problem because I was going to put one on anyway to keep 75psi from going to the house.

Since you recommend a small bladder tank, my footprint will increase a little because I currently only have a galvanized tank. Shouldn't be a problem though.

Thanks,
Ira

There won't be any backflow. Water don't compress, so it won't move when the sprinklers come on. I have mine on a flow switch and it works great. No Check Valve is necessary.

I'm not sure what you mean by the state of the tank. With the Air Pump, we keep the air at a preset level with the aid of the Air Release Valve. Without the Air Pump, the galvanized tank would just eventually waterlog.

I didn't know the max pressure for the Flow Switch was 60 psi. My pressure is set at around 60/85 and the Flow Switch doesn't seem to mind. The tank I recommended, the PC-66 measures 16" diameter by 29" tall.

bob...

Products and Pricing

You answered my question about the state of the tank. It will continue to contain air above the water just like it does now.

If this were a new installation, where in the line would you put the galvanized tank in relation to where the line splits with one side going to the house and the other to the sprinkler? Before the "T"? After the "T"? If after, would you put it before the softener or after it?

So...pump -> pressure switch -> bladder tank -> "T" or galvanized tank"?

Thanks,
Ira

It would be Pump > CSV if used > Sprinklers > Bladder tank/switch > Galvanized tank > Flow switch > Filters > House. Or if you don't want the air pump to run when the filters backwash, > Filters > Flow Switch.

bob...

Products and Pricing

Looks like I have some plumbing to do. Currently, I have this...

pump > switch > galvanized tank > "T" > sprinkler off one leg of "T" > filters/house off other leg of "T"

I can do this pretty easily. Would it work...

pump > CSV > sprinklers > bladder tank/switch > softener > galvanized tank > flow switch > house

I guess one problem may be that any "stuff" in my old tank that dislodged would have a straight shot to the house. However, I am willing to switch out my 17 year old galvanized tank for a newer one, especially if it is a smaller tank.

Your diagram shows a 42 gallon galvanized tank. Is this always large enough regardless of the amount of "sulfur smell" in the water?

Thanks,
Ira

Switch the galvanized tank and the softener and you have got it. You wouldn't want the galvanized tank after the softener.


bob...

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