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Thread: UV vs. charcoal filtration system

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  1. #1
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    UV vs. charcoal filtration system

    We have need for a UV light on our system. I bought a charcoal filtration/treatment system from Bob (big tank thing with a control that sits on top and backflushes every week or so).

    We are putting a couple sediment filters ahead of the UV light but need to know; is it best to put the UV light before the charcoal filter or after.. or does it matter?

    thanks!

    Dan


  2. #2
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    Well Dan,

    That didn't work, how about trying his Forum. That aught to get his attention.

    Gary's Forum



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  3. #3
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    I'm here. I'm just slow, but I'm thorough.... Dan, it sounds as if you have a Coliform bacteria contamination; that's all that UV is used for.

    You should not be using carbon (charcoal) on water that is contaminated witrh bacteria; bacteria thrive in carbon. A UV light doesn't need multiple sediment filters ahead of them, only one is needed and only when there is no other treatment ahead of the UV. So putting the UV ahead of the carbon might be an option.

    The minimum water quality for the use of a UV must be met or the UV can't work. The best way for me to answer all your questions and you answer mine, is for you to call me.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates
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  4. #4
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    In the fall and winter most of the water around here gets giardiasis (beaver fever) in it from the tributary streams, etc. so it's more of a safety precaution than a 'must have' at this point. I'll put the UV prior to the charcoal filter and see how it works out.

    Because the spring is fairly new and still somewhat murky after a few cycles I put a sediment filter in line from the spring to the holding tank. I figure it best and will help keep some of the sediment down in the holding tank. Then I pull the water out of the holding tank with a jet pump to a pressure tank, to the UV & sediment filter combo, to the charcoal then on to the house.

  5. #5
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    Only some UV lights can treat giardia and crypto. You should be disinfecting spring water and if using the UV light, it must be last in line. That will also help meet the minimum water quality needed to be able to use a UV.

    I need much more info. Do you have a pump in the spring? If so you may not want that filter between it and the tank or the float or pressure switch that controls the pump.

    List in order from the spring to the house all the equipment you have now and explain why and what type of filters. Also the size of the holding tank.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates
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  6. #6
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    ok, it's a 3/4hp submersible in a 1550 gallon holding tank that is slitted on the sides and backfilled with drain rock in a 12' deep X 11' wide hole that has a spring feeding it. The 3/4 hp is controlled by a pumptec. Pumps 450' through 1" pipe up about 100' in elevation to a 2500 gallon holding tank. In that line is a 5 micron filter. the purpose of the filter is just to get some of the sediment out of it (fresh system) before it gets to the 2500 gallon storage tank.

    From the 2500 gallon holding tank is a 1.5 hp jet pump, 42 gallon pressure tank. the two items (Pura UV UVBB-2SD) , and a Autotrol carbon filter 1 cu ft tank with auto backwash filter head.

    Thanks!

  7. #7
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    The 5 mic filter needs to to be removed before you blow the pump off the line etc..

    Pura would not be my choice for UV. You will not like doing service on it. Is it class A for crypto and giardia?

    Depending on how hard the water is and how much if any iron and manganese in it, the UV may not work for bacteria let alone crypto and cysts.

    Since we can't talk about this, check the parameters of using that light with the folks you bought it from. Also ask if they think the light should go before or after the carbon filter.

    BTW, I would have suggested no cistern and different treatment equipment at the house or if there had to be a cistern, probably a pressure tank and disinfection equipment before the cistern. How do you plan on cleaning and disinfecting the cistern?

    If you haven't installed the light yet, you may be able to return it for a refund.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates
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  8. #8
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    Dan, after hearing what you told Gary in this post, it all comes back now. Gary suggested removing the 5 micron filter. This may be a good idea as it may be what is making the sub drop amperage and trip the Pumptec. If you can remove it, let me know if the Pumptec problem goes away.

    bob...

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  9. #9
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    the water hasn't hit the 5 micron filter yet, I'm still just cycling the water out of the well and letting it run into a ditch. I've not started filling the 2500 gallon holding tank yet until I cycle the water in the well a few times.

  10. #10
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    You have really got me going on the Pumptec tripping problem now. You did leave the check valve in the pump, Right??? If not, I could see how when the motor first starts it would be pulling high amps, but as the column of water got further up the amps would drop because of the increased head. I wish I was there, it would be a lot easier to see what's going on.



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