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Thread: increasing pressure

  1. #1
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    increasing pressure

    Hello, new to this forum today, read all the posts, but still confused.
    We have a private well, 60 ft. 1/2 hp sub. pump. We have horrible water pressure. You cannot run 2 things at once, or the water goes to a dribble. We have to replace the pressure tank, and we would also like to add some type of booster. The current pressure tank is 20 gal. wellxtrol, would like to increase the size. We have 3 bathrooms.

    Could you recommend what we should purchase?

    Thank you.

  2. #2
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    First of all, do you have any kind of filtration, water softener, iron filter so called whole house filters (in line)?

    What size is your main line leaving your pressure tank feeding the home. What kind of pipe is it?

    bob...


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  3. #3
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    oh thank you for your speedy response. It is a 1" pvc pipe and I have a water softner and an in line filter (cheapy thing, plastic with a replacable filter) which by the way is very very red when I replace it on a very frequent basis.

  4. #4
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    Get rid of the in line filter. They are useless.

    Then try bypassing the softener. If you can get it to bypass, hopefully the pressure will be much better. If so, you need a real iron filter instead of or along with the softener.

    A water test would be a wise thing also. If you can get one, post back and you will get more ideas on what you need.

    If this don't help, you may have a pump problem. But the system you described should give great pressure if it's working right.

    bob...


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  5. #5
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    water test shows pH 9.5, Alkalinity 240, Chlorine 0.2, Hardness 120, Copper 0, Nitrate 0, Iron 0
    The iron is confusing as we have red fliter when changing, red ring in toilets, red build up in shower stall. The test was done from the water at the outside hose bib which is bypassed from the inline filter and water softner.

    Bypassed the water softner and still no differnece in the pressure. I know that the pressure tank is bad as it cycles on and off very frequently when using water. Also the tank feels empty, very light.

    Thank again, Caroline

  6. #6
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    Just looked at gauges on pressure tank. There are 2 gauges on my tank. With water turned on, bottom gauge drops to 40, top gauge drops to 60, you hear a click and both gauges start going up bottom gauge stops at 78, top gauge stops at 90.

    Once the gauges hit 60 and 90 you see them instantly start falling, takes only about 15 seconds for them to drop to 40 and 60. Once they have hit 40 and 60 you instantly hear clicking and they start to climb again, it only takes them about 20 seconds to reach 60 and 90. This happens constantly, non stop while water is turned on.

  7. #7
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    You have a serious water leak between the pump and the gauges/switches.

    I've never heard of two gauges and switches, maybe Bob has, but I wouldn't like the 90 psi. That is a bit too high for a residential well water system.

    The leak could be the check valve in/on the outlet of the pump or anywhere in the plumbing from the check valve to the switches.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates
    www.qualitywaterassociates.com
    Softener Forum

  8. #8
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    Hi Gary, thank you for your reply.

    If I had a leak would I not see water somewhere. The area where the pressure tanks sit is perfectly dry, so is the tank, pipes and all plumbing.

    I did a reading when no water is running the top gauge is 75 the bottom gauge is 68. I then turned on a tap and within 45 seconds the gauges dropped to 40 and 60, clicked and started to climb again.

    Also the tank seems awfully light, I can push it with one hand without any effort and I am not a big woman. It seems to me that if there is 20 gallons of water (weight of water approx. 160 lbs.)in the tank I would not beable to move the tank so easily.

  9. #9
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    I would buy one new gauge and trust it more than both of the disagreeing gauges you have now.

    If it takes 20 seconds to shut off but less time to come back on, Gary is right you have a major leak. It's more than likely down the well since you don't see water anywhere.

    If you allow this to continue, you will be needing a motor real soon.

    bob...


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  10. #10
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    Nice to hear from you again Bob, thank you.

    Okay I shut all of the power to the well and pressure tank, opened a facet and let the water drain out. Then I added air to pressure tank to 38 psi. Going by the top gauge only (ignored the bottom gauge) Then I turned back on all the power. Also the inline water filter is bypassed as is the water softner. The gauge went upto 80. I then turned on the faucet the gauge dropped to 58 clicked and climbed to 80. I did this a number of times and kept getting the same readings. Why is it that when I added air to the pressure tank it read 38, but after running water and the gauge climbing to 80 it does not return to 38?

    I will add that the the top gauge is the one I am reading for this post, it comes out of a black box which has a safety shut off box sitting on top of that. It looks as though this is a one piece unit (the gauge, the black box and the safety shut off box).

    To add insult to injury after I turned back on the power and opened the faucet the water now comes out a red/orange color which had never happened before. The water runs clear after about a minute. After shutting off the faucet and turning it on again, the water comes out red/orange again, let the water run for a minute or so and runs clear again.

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