Greetings, newbie here and all of my experience is "web-based" so please bear with me.

My system: House & well (125') circa 1970. My wellhead is under my deck (I think) there is a 3'x6' concrete slab approx 10' from foundation that aligns with pump location in basement. Myers "HCM" dual jet Ejecto pump (circa 1970?) mounted to basement wall. Pump motor replaced with 1.5HP GE brand shortly before I bought the house 5 years ago. Pressure Switch (can't read PN) attached to side of motor. Large (60" tall) Myers AV82G galvanized steel tank (looks 30+ yrs old) Tank has a single inlet pipe at bottom, a shrader valve (capped) next to the inlet and a drain valve on opposite side. No AVC attached. Culligan water softner with chlorine injection tank installed downstream of main tank.

My problem: Last Friday afternoon I returned from a week on the road, turned on the faucet, no water pressure anywhere in house. Went to basement, pressure gauge on pump reads zero. Power to one side of pressure switch, but not switching on. Wife came home, said pump had been running "funny" all week. In panic called all local plumbers who would answer phone, found out 99% don't work on wells. One who did said I needed to reprime my pump and my tank was "waterlogged" (huh?), but wouldn't come out to fix. Sooo, Jarhead can-do spirit and trusty internet to the rescue. I found out how to reprime the bugger. Disconnected line to switch and blew it out. Went to drain some off the tank, only got 2 gallons or so. Went to open shrader valve, water comes jetting out, buy still won't drain anymore. Closed everything back up, primed (only took 1 pint) flipped the switch and presto, water works and Dads a hero because now my daughter can take a shower. But something made the darn thing break so I still have a problem??

My question: The pump appears to be cycling a lot more often than I remember, it kicks on approx 2 secs after flushing and will cycle twice. It will kick on/off every 5 secs while the washer/shower is running. The tank level is now only maintaining at the 1/3 full mark. Earlier corrosion/condensation marks start at the 2/3 level, but there are lower "lines" as well. Water jets out of shrader valve as soon as I remove cap. Pump is cycling on @40psi, off @65. It's not bleeding any pressure overnight, so I "think" my foot valve is ok. Do I need to replace the switch? Replace the big galvanized tank with a bladder tank?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I've been calling other shops all week trying to get someone out to look at it, but 2 said they only drill new wells in situations like this(???) and the other is booked for 3 weeks solid.