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  1. #1

    Pump not cycling enough?

    Hello and thank you in advance for any help you can give!

    I live in a house that has a bladder tank (not sure of the size, but the on/off range is 30-50), smart tee, and a Honeywell-Braukmann F76 water filter. For a long time now, we have had to flush the filter about once or twice a day in order to maintain water pressure in the house.

    We thought that the filter was our problem (especially silt-y water or something), but what we have now figured out is that we were using the filter flush to lower the house pressure enough for the bladder tank to turn on. We do not own the house and have had to figure this stuff out on our own (the owner is an 82 year old grandmother, so not much help).

    We've checked the pressure gauges at the tank and at the filter when the actual water pressure was high and low. The readings are always the same.

    This leads us to believe that something in either the tank or the smart tee is malfunctioning in some way. Lately the pressure has decreased even more rapidly than normal.

    I am not really familiar with this equipment, so any insight you can provide would be greatly appreciated. I've tried to give as much information as I could, but if more is necessary, I will provide it.

    Thanks again!
    -Caesura

  2. #2
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    Hi Caesura,

    Are you saying that you need to flush the toilet or backwash the filter so that the pump kicks-in and you are able to get running water on any other fixtures?

    What the smart-tee does is keep your pump running until ALL fixtures are closed and there is no more drawing of water. This will save a lot of electricity and pump wear since the pump is NOT cycling as usual systems. This is good for you.

    David

  3. #3
    We never lose pressure fully, meaning that even if the pressure is very low, I can still take a shower or wash dishes, it's just not very enjoyable. We backwash the filter to make the pump turn on and return the water pressure to a more useful psi. (I hope I answered your question)

  4. #4
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    Is this filter between the pump and tank? If so remove it. Actually you should just remove the thing anyway, if it's what I think it is. A so called whole house filter that you can hold in one hand. These things are absolutely useless for water filtration. If you want a filter that is used for a whole house. It would be at least 8" in diameter and about 4' tall.

    The other problem I see is possible the Smart Tee. If you unscrew the big black plastic dome from the brass part of the tee, you will find two o rings and a screen. The screen can be discarded as it's probably plugged up and not really necessary.

    bob...


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  5. #5
    I think the filter is after everything else. This is the filter:http://www.honeywell.ca/braukmann/products/f76.htm. I don't think removing it is really an option. The water is very silty and we can see the buildup on the filter within a short period of time if it isn't flushed.

    I will look at the screen on the smart tee possibly later today. If the filter is after the pump and the tank, it is entirely possible that it is clogged.

    Thanks

  6. #6
    Just to clarify, I'm rewording my last statement:

    I will look at the screen on the smart tee possibly later today. If the filter is after the pump and the tank, it is entirely possible that the screen is clogged.

  7. #7
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    I looked at your webpage. I still say remove it.

    If you want a real filter to do what that thing professes to do, let me know I can help.

    bob...


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  8. #8
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    I think Caesura's problem is not going to be the Spin-Down filter or the Smart-Tee's screen. I believe the problem will be in the Smart-Tee's pressure output. This can be regulated, right Bob? If the pump is on a 30/50 switch, then the ST output can be increased up to 25 PSI which is nothing if your house is more than one level. You would have to toy with the pressure switch and increase the operating range to 40/60, then regulate the ST to say 35 PSI. What do you think Bob?

    I simpathise with you Caesura in that you're a renter and don't want to make an unecessary expense that will be owned by somebody else. Maybe you can talk your landlady into buying it for you guys. Tell her how much it will increase the value of her property and make it more attractive to rent down the road. Give Bob a call, he can give you a good deal.

    David

  9. #9
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    Yes David, the pressure switch should be set about 10 pounds higher than the desired constant pressure. This keeps the pump running regardless of what the pump is actually putting out.

    The adjustment is made by turning the bolt on the ST in or out to get desired pressure while using the desired amount of water somewhere in the home.

    The screen can plug up. Mine plugged up immediately after installing it with PVC glue, so I removed it and 4 years later it still works fine.

    I still don't like inline filters no matter who makes them or how hi tech they are. They are just too small to do the job. Where this one plugs up in less than a week, a 9" X 48" tank with some silica sand can remove a whole bunch of silt before needing backwashing and can be made to backwash automatically if desired.

    bob...


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  10. #10
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    I've been in contact with CSV people about this topic and we haven't agreed but I'm sure Gary can back me up on this. Instead of "filter" you can use a centrifugal separator between the pump and the switch. A separator has no screens, bags, cartridges or media to load or foul; hence limiting the flow and pressure between the pump and switch. It spins the water so all the sand and some of the larger sediments are allowed to settle on a separate chamber. You flush this chamber automatically or manually. This latter point is up to you and your wallet.

    If there is a lot of fine sediment you can add a backwashable tank filter after the pressure tank and switch.

    David

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