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  1. #1
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    Click Click Click Click

    Hi all, new guy here.

    I 'm building our new house and have the following:

    300' well.
    Gould 3/4HP deep well pump.
    9+ gpm

    I bought a Shur-Dri 35/82 gallon pressure tank and installed a 30/50 switch.

    The problem:

    From 0 pressure, I have to manually close the contacts to start the pump. Eventually, I can let go of the contacts and the pump will run up to 50.
    When the pressure drops to 30, the switch cuts in by itself as it should. It immediately cuts off as the surge puts the pressure gauge at something over 60lbs. It cycles on and off like that until I stop it by either manually closing the switch again or shutting down the power.

    The thought of that new pump torquing around down there makes my skin crawl.

    I think the switch is just doing its job as the start-up pressure exceeds the 50 preset. The tank is said to ship with 40psi pre-charge/ I lowered that to 28.

    If this is a simple and maybe often asked question, forgive me.
    I have several thousand posts on other forums and I try to be kind to newbies so I hope you'll do the same.

    Thanks, in advance,

    Paul

  2. #2
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    The switch must be an FSG2-M4 Square D. It has a low pressure cut out. It's the wrong switch for good well. It's designed for low yield wells.

    The surge your talking about sounds like there is no tank in line or it's got a shut off valve preventing water from getting in. You said you lowered the air pressure to 28. If so, the tank should let water in at the rate the pump can produce it and the tank should keep the pump running until the tanks total gallonage is satisfied.

    What brand tank do you have? What size is it, model number might help. Is this a submersible pump? Can you provide some pictures?

    bob...

    Products and Pricing

  3. #3
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    Change out the pressure switch for a normal one, not a low pressure switch.
    Make sure the line from the pump to the tank is open. No shut off valves closed, not dead headed. If the water doesn't have anywhere to go it will immediately jump up to the pressure you indicate and shut off the pump.
    If you have a small leak in the pump check valve or drop pipe it will act the same way constantly cycling.
    Finally I would check the tank that it doesn't have an internal leak. Try moving the tank to see if it is full of water. Open the schrader valve and see if any water comes out. Even with a new tank it could be bad.
    I would also recommend a CSV, Cycle Stop Valve in the system. Heck I recommend them in every system!

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the info!
    Low pressure? I couldn't find a 40/60 locally. It seems the 30/50 is popular.

    Here's a pic:





    I followed the instructions that came with the tank so from left to right are.
    1. Check valve
    2. Coupling
    3. Switch
    4. Gauge
    5. Outlet (currently just a hose valve)
    6. Shur-Dri SDPT36 (35/82 gallon)

    Gould 3/4HP, 220V deep well pump.
    I've read a little about the CSV but not enough to fully grasp its purpose. I will try to look it up again but time is VERY limited just now as I'm scrambling to meet the deadline on this house.

    Thanks again for your help. If anyone has a model number for the correct switch, please fire away.

    Paul


  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    The brass check valve should be removed. The pressure switch should be where the hose bibb is. The hose bibb should be where the pressure switch is. The Watts pressure reducing valve should be removed and replaced with a CSV1W Cycle Stop Valve. Then it will work properly.

    Cycle Stop Valve Website

  6. #6
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    If you can't find a 40/60 you can use a 30/50. Using a nut driver adjust the switch. It is the nut on the small machine screw on top with the cover off. Most switches come with adjustment info. Adjust it to the cut in pressure, the cut out pressure will take care of itself.

    Basically the CSV keeps the pump running as long as water is being used. This stops the cycling which reduces wear and tear on the pump and the bladder in the tank and gives a better, more even flow of water. Wouldn't have a system without one.

  7. #7
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    It works!

    I replaced the switch with another 30/50 which DIDN'T say "low pressure cut-off" on the package.

    Valve Man, I assembled the thing according to the instructions that came with the tank. If changing the order and removing the check valve is the proper way, I'll do it. Also, the hose bib is temporary. I can't plumb the house yet so the hose bib is the temporary service. I'll replace it after I pass the framing inspection. I appreciate the CSV model number too.

    Jeff, thanks for the concise info on the CSV. I'm aware of the adjustment and will probably raise it to a 40/60. I like the idea and will probably order one.

    Thanks again all for the excellent info. If anybody cares, I can post the diagram that came with the tank. If it's wrong, people should know about it.


  8. #8
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    Pics. Hopefully these will help somebody else along the way.

    From the Shur-Dri manual:






    The new switch:





  9. #9
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    I see why your set up looks like it does. It looks just like the diagram. This is the diagram from the pump manufacturer? Lord help us!!! I would not buy one of their pumps, because they obviously have no idea what they are doing. So they probably do not build good pumps either.

    Like I said, the pressure switch and discharge lines should be reversed. Then the pressure relief valve tees off the line and dumps outside or to a drain. The pressure reducing valve you have is not the right kind of valve, do away with it completely.

    Cycle Stop Valve Website

  10. #10
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
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    I'm not sure, but I think Shur-Dri is another disguised name for Myers who is naturally owned by Pentair Water along with a bunch of other brand name pumps. I wonder what they have against Tank Tees?

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