Thread: Recommendations/suggestions

Hello all,

I recently posted in another forum and got great tips from Bob. I am posting here so he can give me a run down of everything he thinks i need to upgrade my setup (as well as input from others!)

I have a 3 story house (including full basement) with 2.5 baths, laundry room etc. I currently have a 20 Gal Well Saver pos from Lowes, with a 30/50 switch. I just tested my pump the way Bob mentioned by running it up to 65 lbs holding the contacts on the switch down with no issues. Is it ok to upgrade to a 40/60 then?

Also as i said id like to upgrade the size of the tank because i think mine is small for the house. As well as putting a csv valve in which you already recommended the model CSV1Z (thx). Where would this go before of after the tank tee? The tank Bob recommended was a Flexcon-knowing nothing about these why is it better than say a Well Mate?


My questions;

1. Which tank size should i go with?
2. Whats the best switch to use these days? Square D or other?
3. Is it best to use pipe dope or tape? Or pipe dope and tape? Also i was worried i was degrading these connections once soldering on the other end was heating up the entire assembly?
4. Now for the kicker, please see my crazy water softner/conditioner setup below. I had hard water & sulfer smell when i moved into this house. So i paid alot of money and a local Water Conditioner Co installed a new softner and this crazy air compressor/aeration system and it works well. However im worried that if i get a csv it may interfere with it as the Aircompressor is wired to the switch to turn on everytime the pump does. Am i wrong? Thanks again!

Oh yeah i definitely think i need a relief valve where that plug is!

You go to a CSV you should reuse your present pressure tank.

All you need for the aeration is to use a flow switch to turn the compressor on but, your compressor is probably set to only run part of the time (like 80%) your pump runs now, not full time as a flow switch would allow it to. Also, your aeration is set up with a compressor but like an air injection system using a venturi. The air is going into the plumbing in front of the vent tank, and the vent tank and the other two tanks are quite small. You have Autotrol control valves, probably 255s, and the softener has a Logix timer. The filter and softener look too small to me.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Softener Forum

quote:Originally posted by Gary Slusser

You go to a CSV you should reuse your present pressure tank.

All you need for the aeration is to use a flow switch to turn the compressor on but, your compressor is probably set to only run part of the time (like 80%) your pump runs now, not full time as a flow switch would allow it to. Also, your aeration is set up with a compressor but like an air injection system using a venturi. The air is going into the plumbing in front of the vent tank, and the vent tank and the other two tanks are quite small. You have Autotrol control valves, probably 255s, and the softener has a Logix timer. The filter and softener look too small to me.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Softener Forum

Im sorry im pretty new to this stuff so bare with me here.
You think i should reuse my current tank? I figured if i was doing this (taking all apart) id do it once and do it right and go with quality parts no? I heard these tanks are junk and want this system to last.

So are you saying i cannot just put a csv in with this system without adding a flow switch?? No idea what that is or where it would go.

I got these installed about 8months ago and they seem to work fine? How are they too small? (not arguing just dont know anything about em) So i got ripped off? Youre right my manuals say 740/760 Control 255 and Performa Series Valves. The other 400 Series control FA Valve? Are thes not a good setup? Quality? I hope they last as i spent alot of money on the whole system. $1200 for the softner system and $2100 for the other Filter system!

So you're saying you'll spend money replacing a tank now that is working well to save like an hour a few years from now when it needs to be replaced? I wouldn't. All you need now is a CSV. It goes on the end of the tank tee where the line from the well connects to the tee; the gray plastic fitting.

A flow switch goes in the water line at your aeration/softener.

I didn't mean that you got ripped off but... Since you're wanting to be a DIYer, had you bought your filter and softener online, you probably would have saved the price of the softener but, your tanks look like 8" x 40-44" and 9" x 48". A 9 x 48 is a 1 cuft tank, 8 x 44 is 3/4 cuft. Your peak demand with 2+ people or a large tub or shower will probably run more gpm through the media in the small tanks than it's constant service flow rating and the equipment won't be able to get all the hardness and iron etc. out of the water.

Has your water consistently been 0 gpg soft or does it get hard sometimes? Do you have rust stains in toilet bowls showers etc.? If so the equipment is too small.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Softener Forum

I would add the CSV where Gary suggested and leave it at that. You already have all new stuff so changing it wouldn't make good sense to me.

The CSV will save wear and tear on the tank so it may last almost half as long as a good one.[:x)]

Just install the CSV1Z, adjust it up and see how you like the better pressure.

I'm not sure what Gary is talking about with the flow switch. I am doing this at home through a remote desktop and the images move like molassas. I'm not sure what turns the compressor on now, so I don't know if a flow switch would help or not.

bob...

Products and Pricing

quote:Originally posted by Gary Slusser

So you're saying you'll spend money replacing a tank now that is working well to save like an hour a few years from now when it needs to be replaced? I wouldn't. All you need now is a CSV. It goes on the end of the tank tee where the line from the well connects to the tee; the gray plastic fitting.

A flow switch goes in the water line at your aeration/softener.

I didn't mean that you got ripped off but... Since you're wanting to be a DIYer, had you bought your filter and softener online, you probably would have saved the price of the softener but, your tanks look like 8" x 40-44" and 9" x 48". A 9 x 48 is a 1 cuft tank, 8 x 44 is 3/4 cuft. Your peak demand with 2+ people or a large tub or shower will probably run more gpm through the media in the small tanks than it's constant service flow rating and the equipment won't be able to get all the hardness and iron etc. out of the water.

Has your water consistently been 0 gpg soft or does it get hard sometimes? Do you have rust stains in toilet bowls showers etc.? If so the equipment is too small.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Softener Forum

I see your point Gary, definitely not trying to argue with you as like i said i dont know much about these things and the reason i have to fixed the tiny leaks in the tee anyways and replace the press. switch but i guess i could reuse the tank. I dont happen to know what my water hardness is, my family consists of just my wife and i, 7 month old baby and another on the way. Hopefully it will be able to handle it. I do not however notice rust stains or anything like that anymore since putting in this system. However it doesnt use much salt at all, so that kind of concerned me (dont know if that means anything). I wish i did look into the water softner setup myself but was short on time and need good water, did not know anything about it either. Like what i would need for the type of water i have ya know. Where can i get a good test kit from? Im still a little concerned as i remember my tds was a little high i think and we do drink the water.

As for the flow switch do i really really need it?? Im not the greatest at soldering but can handle it if needed. Where exactly would it go? What kind and where can i get it from.

Also i do need a releif valve right? Oh and Bob or Gary could you give me a pointer on how to install that CSV -would i just omit that plastic pipe and get a different type of plastic elbo that could thread right into the csv? Thanks again guys

The CSV could go anywhere in the black plastic poly line coming in from the well. There are lots of ways to plumb it in. It has to be in front of the pressure switch, that's the only catch.

bob...

Products and Pricing

If you buy a test kit at a big box or hardware store for hardness, you can see if the softener is working right, and it sounds as if it is. Low salt use is a good thing bit not how you determine softener operation. TDS is not a health concern, so it's not a problem unless the guy is selling ROs and then they tend to suggest problems with it no matter how much you have. It's a measurement of all the dissolved things in the water like hardness, iron, manganese etc. etc.

Why do you need to change the pressure switch, it's working or you wouldn't have water. It's old but then so is Bob. And me. And we are very good because of our age. And if you have the leaks stopped, add the CSV and yer done 'til next time. You can get the fittings and clamps at any place that sells pumps (usually). You have 1" PE pipe, so maybe the CSV will screw on the tank tee or you get the right size fittings and cut a piece out of the PE pipe; I'd do it between the tank tee and the elbow, on/with the elbow if the CSV doesn't screw on the tee. That way you can get the insert end into the line from the wall easily.

The flow switch is needed because the CSV keeps the pump running and the compressor now comes on with the pressure switch. Remember you asked about that? And you'd adjust the flow switch for like .2 gpm or more flow. That will prevent the compressor from coming on every time you open a faucet a trickle.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Softener Forum

Thanks Gary- i will try a test kit and see how it goes. Youre right again as they were trying to sell me an ro system too.

The reason i wanted to replace the pressure switch is its now a 30/50 and wanted to go to a 40/60, also its a real cheapo from Lowes and doesnt always work right. Sometimes for no apparent reason it will drop down to zero and not kick on. As it is now i watch it drop down to 30psi and it will just sit there for like 10 or more seconds before it kicks the pump on. Just dont trust it. Bob mentioned installing the csv on the plastic pipe coming out of the wall. I think this would be best too. Just need to figure out what type of fittings i will need.

But now that you mention this flow switch i am hesitant to do this on my own. I still dont have any idea where this switch would go and where to get it from/what type (are there different types? Does the csv really constantly run the pump? If so isnt this bad for the pump? Thanks again for you help!

quote:But now that you mention this flow switch i am hesitant to do this on my own.

I can't see what turns that Gast pump on or off in the picture. Do you know what tells it to come on? If nothing does, then a flow switch would be a good idea or you could wire it into the pressure switch (getting 115 volts to it only). Otherwise if it comes on by itself already, a flow switch isn't necessary.

bob...

Products and Pricing