Thread: Reset Button wont reset

Have a Franklin 1.5 hp control box. when pump has been off for a while, run water cycles down to turn pump on (40 psi) motor trips reset button. Try to reset 10-20 times in a row then finnally comes back on line. when pump is running runs great. i have to run irrig if i want pump to stay on (it wont reach 65 psi when irrig is on) to take shwers and wash cloths. i recently received info on testing amps and ohms at control box from Franklin Electric. I am electricly challenged. I am going to hire professional Master Electrician to test above mentioned. I have posted similar problem before but not much luck since, it seems to be getting worse by the week. I find it very strange that once its on it runs like a champ, but once it shuts its self off (65 psi) it occasionally wont reengage. Have I missed something? Any help is appreciated.

1.5 hp pump Brand unknown
1.5 hp Franklin Electric control box
35 gallon diapragm tank (A.O. smith)
pressure switch set at 40 psi and 65 psi
have 30 amp breaker in panel ran with 10-3 220 wire to control box and the same to well head
well approx. 400 feet deep[B)]

The AO Smith tank is suspect. I never thought much of that brand. If it's waterlogged, that would be one problem.

You may have a weak Start Capacitor or a a Relay who's points are not making up very well. If the motor runs once started without pulling high amps, it's one of the above. I have Control Boxes or just Start Caps and Relays if you want to try them.

I'm not sure I would use an Electrician. I would try to find a "Good" Pump man or Well Driller that owns an Ohm Meter and Ampmeter. It would also help if he knows how to use them. I actually know several Pumpmen/Well Drillers that have the equipment that don't have a clue how to use them. They sure look impressive to the untrained eye though.

bob...

Products and Pricing

Yeah electricians don't know pumps and can't pull it if needed. Same for plumbers. So a pump guy or driller is the best choice.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Softener Forum

im sorry i forgot to mention that my well guy did replace all the capacitors and relays and rest button in my control box. could i be frying the caacitor or relay. i am going out of my mind.

Someone needs to electrically troubleshoot the input voltage (to), the pressure switch, the control box, the power cable and the pump motor and then the ohms, amps etc. as per Franklin's instructions/specs for your motor. A pump guy or driller can do that.

I wouldn't keep resetting the reset button, that is a safety device and you can ruin the motor etc.. And as you see, or should see, the problem is getting worse.

Gary
Quality Water Associates
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Softener Forum

Yep, i fried the motor. Well guy came out today, put a 3 hp control box on well, tripped that control box too. pulled old motor and pump, bench tested and it was pulling 45 amps....ooppps. Not sure how that happened. Do motors or can they just go bad or are they made bad. New motor and pump was benched prior to install today and was drawing 8 amps. Well guy said if motor was not getting 230 volts then would have hurt it for sure. Well, i have water again. going to monitor progres of new motor more closely to see if this will reoccur. any thought with all new equipment on proper checks and balances.

Any self respecting Well Driller/Pump Man should be able to check the Motor from above with an Ohm Meter. I don't like it when someone puts a whole Control Box on a Pump then hits it with Electricity. That tells me he doesn't know how to check out the components. This guy sounds like an R&R Mechanic. I hope he didn't bench test this pump and Motor together dry.

For your added protection, I would be very suspect of that AO Smith tank. That might be what started the whole thing.

bob...

Products and Pricing

It sounds like a water logged tank was the main cause of your prob.(when the pump turns on and off real fast) It can cause lots of part to burn up. The pump being one of them. 1. turn off power...2.open the faucet at the bottom of the tank till pressure is down to 0psi....3. take the guage out(that breakes the vacuum on the tank)....4. let all the water run out....5.put the guage back in...6. close the faucet...7. turn the power back on... Thats all there is to it. This is NOT for bladder tanks. That little bit of time it takes to do this will save your pump and save money on the electric bill. I agree with speedbump.Watch out for people that just start changing parts....


The word (Impossible) was thought up by the guy who said "I quit".

ok new pump and motor in hole... 7 days later overload trips again. Well man is stumped. he is curious of water heater electrical. call Ruud supplier (total Jackass). He said one of the following: 1. you need supply tank to hold excess water before expansion tank (i dont have) 2. water when heated expands therefore goes back to expansion thus causeing more head pressure on well. 3. i need a check valve between house and pump thus reducing head pressure back to pump 4. irrigation double check valve installed needs to be removed (this is my problem so says him) 5. he also said pump and well has its own check valve on it. so if any thing above is true i am more confused than ever... I dont know who or what to believe anymore. I have been filled with more bs than i know what to do with. Does anyone one have any knowledge of any of the above mentioned.. Hey guys i really appreciate you guys helping out a complete novice. I trust you guys more than any of these yahoos down here. p.s. please help!!! I need it... [xx(]

If the Well Guy did his job correctly, I would be suspect of the wire from the Control Box to the Pump Motor. Did he change the wire down the well??? We always do! Is there wire going to the Well underground? If so, that could be shorting out. It would be more obvious when the ground is wet. Here again is the guy who doesn't know how to use an Ohm Meter. They are so simple, but can tell you so much.

Where are you located?

bob...

Products and Pricing