Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: motor humms

  1. #1
    Experienced Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    texas.
    Posts
    54

    motor humms

    I just got a free jet pump and tank combo maid by Teel.
    Yesterday I ran romex to it to test it and the motor kicked off and worked.
    So, I installed on the well today.
    I ran romex to it and wired it the same way and now it only humms and then stops humming for about a min. the it starts humming again the stops humming. The motor feels warm so I turned it off.

    I cant think of why it worked yesterday and now it is all together it only humms.

    It is a 3/4 hp motor with only two black wires comming out of the motor to the center two lugs on the pressure switch.
    I ran the bare ground wire to a grounding screw on the switch and the black to one side of the switch and the white wire to the other side of the pressure switch contacts.

    There are only two black wires coming out of the motor. Is that 110 or 220?
    And any ideas on a hummer?

    The romex is 12/2 plus a groung and about 40 feet long going into the breaker box.
    Any ideas on these questions?
    Jerry

  2. #2
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Murphy, NC. USA.
    Posts
    11,786
    On the Motor there should be a diagram telling what wires need to be where on the back of the motor (usually)under the end bell cap. The newer Pump motors these days have switches of all different kinds depending on manufacturer that change voltage for you.

    If you put 115 volts to a Motor wired for 230 volts, it will either start slowly and rev up and down as the Pump starts to Prime, or it won't start at all. If you put 230 volts to a Motor wired for 115 volts, you would have probably already burned it up.

    bob...


    Products and Pricing

  3. #3
    Experienced Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    texas.
    Posts
    54
    I wired the motor 110v from the beganing. I took the end cap off the motor and the markings show it is set to 110v.
    It only Hummed and tripped the internal thermo something. It would reset itself and thry again but only hummed.

    Progress---I took the clamp band off the pump housing and split the case. Dug out a few dirt dobber nests (none of which were blocking the motor from turning inside the impeller housing.

    I stuck my finger in the center suction hole and gave the impeller and motor a turn.

    With the case still seperated I turned on the power and the motor kicked off and it will repeat every time I turn the power on and off. It appears to be cured while it is apart.

    (2 questions)
    1)I am wondering if there is a bad spot that if the motor stops in that location it wont start?

    2)Can the vacume of being hooked up to the pluming keep the motor from starting if it or the cap. is weak but let it work when it is apart and no restriction?


    I am going back out side and put it back together and see if I have a well or not. Back later.
    Jerry

  4. #4
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Murphy, NC. USA.
    Posts
    11,786
    So you have a Hydroglas by Starite. I hate Plastic Jet Pumps.

    Anyway, it could be that the band was fine but somebody tightened the four bolts the wrong way and caused the impeller to be bound by the diffuser. When you took off the band, it let things relax enough to let it start. It sounds like that's what happened. Loosen all four motor bolts where they bolt the motor to the big plastic seal plate and tighten them down proportionately. Then try it again. Do not run it dry for more that a few seconds, Starite Impellers like to weld themselves to the brass in the diffuser.

    bob...

    Products and Pricing

  5. #5
    Experienced Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    texas.
    Posts
    54
    Hot damn, I got water and lots of it (from what I can tell).

    I had a feeling that free jet pump and tank combo was not of high quality but it was free did I mention that it was free.
    I needed to repair or replace that 50 year old Ruth Berry and I came across this TEEL brand 3/4hp combo set.

    The motor not coming on was a problem with the centrifical switch on the end of the motor shaft that was loose.
    I dont know much about it but I found the screw loose that holds it to the end of the shaft.
    This centrifical switch plate has a slot in it to adjust how much off center swing it has.
    What are you adjusting when you move it farther off center making it have a larger swing radius?
    There is a contact tab that it operates. When the motor is running it opens up and it closes when it stops.
    I can understand it is shutting off maybe the start up power after it gets going but I do not understand the slot adjustment on that clutch. It is probably not back to where it should be but I did tighten it down where I saw some old marks.
    Do I need to set the timing on this?
    Other non related details on a diff. topic posting.
    Jerry

  6. #6
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Murphy, NC. USA.
    Posts
    11,786
    That is the centrifugal switch. It sets down two flats. If it does not it's installed wrong.
    It is not adjustable like the points are.
    bob...

    Products and Pricing

  7. #7
    Experienced Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    texas.
    Posts
    54
    I just couldnt figure out what the slot is for allowing you to move it off center more or less, unless the more off center the more it colapses while spinning.
    Jerry

  8. #8
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Murphy, NC. USA.
    Posts
    11,786
    No, it has to be installed over the flats on the end of the shaft. If not, it won't last long.

    bob...

    Products and Pricing

  9. #9
    Experienced Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    texas.
    Posts
    54
    O crap, I think I understand, I need to look and see if the end of the shaft will fit into the "slot" on that centrifugal plate and not just tighten down on it. I will do that. I had just tightened it down and didnt think it may be slotted to fit over the end of the shaft locking it in place.
    I will go check that now.
    Jerry

  10. #10
    Experienced Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    texas.
    Posts
    54
    That was exactly it. It would have eaten itself if I had of let it go. I had never completely removed it to see the flats.
    There was a squared off little raised section (flats)on the end face of the motor shaft that matched the slot in the centrifugal switch.

    Problem solved, no more humming motor with dead spots at start up.

    You guys rock. Thanks Speedbump for your help and patients. If you were in town Id buy you a beer.

    End of this topic.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •