Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: wiring the reg or the start cap.first

  1. #1
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    lancaster, ca.
    Posts
    4

    wiring the reg or the start cap.first

    the wires coming in the well room are bare and 1 blk and 1 white. there is 220 the wht is hot so my question is do i wire into the reg first and then to start cap.? I can freely spin motors by hand but when elec. is connected it just humms but motor doesnt spin on 3 pumps the same thing its getting 220 on a submersible pumps 3/4 and 1 1/2 on the 1 1/2 contol box trips reset button

  2. #2
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Murphy, NC. USA.
    Posts
    11,786
    quote: the wires coming in the well room are bare and 1 blk and 1 white
    Do you mean they are not in conduit?

    quote:there is 220 the wht is hot so my question is do i wire into the reg first and then to start cap.?
    If only one wire is hot, you do not have 220 volts.

    quote:I can freely spin motors by hand but when elec. is connected it just humms but motor doesnt spin on 3 pumps the same thing its getting 220 on a submersible pumps 3/4 and 1 1/2 on the 1 1/2 contol box trips reset button
    You completely lost me on this one. Are these jet pumps or submersible and why do you have so many?



    Products and Pricing

  3. #3
    quote:Originally posted by speedbump

    quote: the wires coming in the well room are bare and 1 blk and 1 white
    Do you mean they are not in conduit?
    No what he means is he has normal romex, i.e. 1-black, 1-white, and 1-bare.

    quote:Originally posted by speedbump
    quote:there is 220 the wht is hot so my question is do i wire into the reg first and then to start cap.?
    If only one wire is hot, you do not have 220 volts.
    No what he means is that the white is hot as well as the black which is normally hot, this was probably not wired by an electrictian, and the white was not marked with red tape (or black) as being hot.


  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Wherever we park the motorhome, , USA.
    Posts
    569
    "...there is 220 the wht is hot so my question is do i wire into the reg first and then to start cap.? ".

    If reg = the pressure switch, yes.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates
    www.qualitywaterassociates.com
    Softener Forum

  5. #5
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    lancaster, ca.
    Posts
    4
    I had an electrician come out although he doesnt know about well pumps,said that I was getting 240 to the pump.(the reason I have a few pumps is they were used and i thought didnt work) There is only one bare out of 3 in the cable that comes into the well room,the other 2 are blk and wht, on the 3/4 hp pump there are 4 wires with a start copasitor and relay box that were checked and found good by the test that it returns down slowly, I didnt have the 1 1/2 hp box which contains a run compacitor also checked. what is the purpose of the start compacitor and run cap.? I have a 4 wire cable ,so if the pump has 3 wires, what should i do with the geen one that the pump doesnt have? when i tried the 1 1/2 hp pump the box which has 2 reset buttons on it one kept tripping after a sec of buzz noise. my pipe to pump is pvc submersible,and i have 120 to the wht and 120 to the blk. my wire cable has yel,blk,grn,red that are 85 ft.to my water. and its im a she

  6. #6
    Pump guy speedbump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Murphy, NC. USA.
    Posts
    11,786
    Before the new code requiring the green wire, motors came in two wire and three wire. They are still called three wire and two wire but they all have the extra third or fourth green wire. The green wire is only a safety ground. It is not needed to make the motor run. A two wire motor needs only 230 volts starting at the pressure switch then going straight to the motor. The three wire motor needs the control box. All the components have to be in working order before the motor will run. If you have an analog meter you can check both start caps. Use the X1K scale for both. The start cap should deflect the meters needle all the way to the right and drift back to almost infinity. To repeat the test you must interchange the leads to the terminals. The run cap is the same procedure but will not deflect as hard as the start cap. The Relay should have around 6K ohms between 1 and 5 and 0 ohms between 1 and 2.

    bob...

    Products and Pricing

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •